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I woke up early and checked the conditions around 6 a.m. The wind was already filling in and the surf was already pumping. To score epic, un-crowded Lanes you really have to get super lucky. Days like Christmas day or the morning after the Super Bowl would fall into this category – and that’s if there are smokin’ conditions on those days. Well, for some strange reason this particular day was one of those days. A perfect lineup with not a soul on the water. I started to immediately freak out calling Robby Swift and screaming at him to get down here immediately. I’d decided to book a helicopter as well, which made me even more stressful,
