LEON JAMAER
The memory of this particular magazine article is still bright and clear. I see Thomas Traversa placing a cutback on a perfectly shaped wave that must be almost twice mast- high. Kauli Seadi is talking about the ruthless reefs of this magical place in the Indian Ocean. Their journey only finishes once all masts are broken and there is no more spare equipment.
THE SPARK
I am a 15 year old surf fanatic reading through the paragraph for the third time. As the magazine comes only every other month, each word and picture from distant countries with foreign waves has to be absorbed and stored away. Facebook and Instagram are yet ideas forming in the heads of their developers. Sensory overload therefore is still an alien concept. It might have been this moment that the will to discover similar places inhabited my mind. I was dreaming, one day, to be riding the same waves that Thomas and Kauli found on the coastline of Java.
