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MARCILIO BROWNE: IN THE ZONE AT JAWS

Marcilio Browne takes us behind the scenes of his recent epic windsurfing sessions at Jaws, sharing the preparation, challenges, and adrenaline-pumping moments that come with charging one of the world’s most intense big-wave spots.

The awesome photos are by: Fish Bowl Diaries.

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GOYA WINDSURFING

THE HYPE

There was a lot of hype about this swell! Several forecasters were calling it the biggest in the past 25 years but this time, we were not going to have wind during the actual biggest day of the swell. The wind was coming the day after, which was still quite big in the AM and then dropping during the day, with super strong trades. So, we went at 7am and were sailing by 8:30! which is pretty unusual for Jaws.

Click on any photo to enlarge and scroll through the gallery!

THE DAY AFTER THE EDDIE

It was crazy windy, 4.2m conditions for sure, but my smallest sail I had with me was a 4.7m. The huge swell day was the day before and it was going to be dropping all day on the day we were going to sail. So, with that in mind we left at 7 AM and we were sailing by 8:30! It is the earliest I ever windsurfed out there. It was pretty beautiful actually, that crazy morning light, not a cloud and the sky and zero crowd factor. It felt really rare like to score sessions like that this day and age with all the crowds we get at Jaws. There were still some bombs for sure, just not as consistent as the day before, but every 40 minutes or so there would be these huge sets which were insane.

That windy day for sure as it was the biggest over the Christmas period! With zero crowds and even with the wild winds, that was the day I found the cleanest waves. Sometimes out there the wind really helps to clean the face of the wave up, as it was blowing so offshore. Even if its super choppy out the back the offshore makes the waves incredibly smooth, once they hit the reef and it makes it actually smoother than some days with no wind at all.

THE BUILD UP

I don’t really talk about my sailing plans at home too much, the kids don’t really care and they are always busy with something else and my wife Caitlin is used to it by now.

We normally start talking three or four days before, basically making sure forecast looks good. We discuss what would be our best window as far as timing, crowds, conditions and we make sure we have rescue available, as well as someone to film and take photos. Along the way we also keep each other updated with all the reports we get from people, any forecasts changes!

THE JOURNEY

We don’t talk about much on the skis! It is usually so windy and choppy we are just trying to get up there not too seasick or tired. We have to be really careful we don’t lose gear along the way! It is hectic going upwind that far with 25 – 30 knots head wind with a ski full of people and gear. I would say that is my least favourite part of a mission to Jaws.

BIG DAYS

Over the past two years we had a couple of huge swells with some very west days which are fast, offshore and super scary. The gnarliest moment for me was Adam Warchol’s wipe out!  I was looking straight into it and that was the scariest thing I have ever seen! I was so happy he came out ok. I would say that was one of the biggest waves I have seen there too. Over the years it has been surreal to watch the way Kai Lenny dominates the place. He is on his own level for sure, so fast committed and he takes lots of risk out there. I really enjoy watching his tow-sessions! The lines he takes are incredible and I get inspiration from those when I go windsurfing. I also like watching guys like Polakow out there, he still charges hard, as do Levi and Swifty!

BETWEEN SETS

On the water we talk to each other out the back a lot, about how the conditions are, if anyone had a good wave or a heavy wipe out! There is a lot of waiting around for sets, so lots of talking. It is also super fun kicking out from a wave and seeing one of your friends doing something sick on the wave behind, you get that epic front row seat.

HEART RATE

I keep a track of my heart rate on my watch, I generally have a really low heart rate. For example, on my road bike going uphill I am around 130 -145, but I have had moments at Jaws that I have been at 170 by the end of a wave.

After the session, I usually wish I had done things a little different! You always want to be a little deeper and take a different line but when you are riding everything is happening so fast. That is what makes Jaws so addictive. Even with the wave being so perfect, it is still very hard to time it right or to be on the right place. There is so much at risk! The speed and the chop are massive. So, when we are riding back on the ski we always reflect on our rides and what we could have done better.

SAFETY

Safety is so important! I have had wipe outs there that felt horrible even wearing the inflation vest! I could only imagine what would have been without it. If I fall at Jaws on a proper wave I pretty much always pull the safety chord straight away. I always want to be up as quick as possible as you never know what you will have to deal with after the first wave. It could be a five-wave set, so at least for me I like to be as fresh as possible and not wait longer to save a cannister. Having the safety vest gives me extra appreciation for the crew back in the day, charging without vests and really going for it!

GEAR

This season I have been riding my old Jaws board. I believe it is 234 by 57 wide. Most of the time I ride the Goya 5.0 Banzai Carbon model, sometimes 4.7 if it is windy. I loved how much control the carbon sails had. All that apparent wind coming up the face, it, is easy to get overpowered. Those sails were handling that power so well and giving me the extra control and stability that I needed. At Jaws I ride slightly smaller fins, KS 14cm and 9cm sides. The board is similar to my Ho’okipa boards, just little longer, narrower and wide point a bit further forward.

APRES SESSION

At the end of the session, I clean the ski right away, eat a tonne of food and jump in a hot bath! After that I will have some family time. I also like to look at the footage and write down all the things I wish I had done differently on the water and also the things I thought I did ok with. Those notes give me pointers to look at the day before we are heading there again, and it helps me make small adjustments and improvements!

MARCILIO BROWNE